For those who love the big wide outdoors, Nepal is the place to go. Its exotic history – think hippy era and ‘Katmandu’ by Bob Seger; think beautiful and varied landscapes, think a mix of ethnic peoples, and amazing high places. And it doesn’t get any higher than Mt Everest.
It’s a great place for hiking and trekking as well as mountaineering. And it’s the former we want to talk about here. Let’s leave mountaineering to the hard-core adventurists. The land where Everest is situated is awesome in so many ways. From its fantastic landscapes, Buddhist architecture and relics, warm Sherpa people and the mountains themselves. Once you have taken the decision to make the journey to Nepal, the most iconic and exciting trip has to be to Everest Base Camp trek. Find out why below.
What You Can Expect on Arrival in Kathmandu
Firstly, you can expect the unexpected! Nepal is a country full of contradictions which often leaves foreigners wondering ‘why?’ But then, if it was like home, we wouldn’t want to go there would we? Arriving at Kathmandu puts you slap bang into the middle of the chaos of a country which only opened up to the outside world in the 1950s.
Thankfully there are some people who have a handle on what visitors want and need. One such outfit is Magical Nepal. With its many years of experience in trekking and well qualified English speaking guides you can breathe a sigh of relief when you reach their office.
Then getting to Lukla, the start of the Everest Base Camp Trek (or EBC for short) leaves us scratching our heads again. The adventure starts in the small hours of the morning on a bus that takes you far (several hours!) out of Kathmandu to the airport designated for flights to the Everest Region. Alternatively, you can take a helicopter directly there, something you might want to seriously think about.
Finally reaching Lukla, bags are handed safely over to waiting porters, and it’s time to get hiking. Thankfully the first day is not strenuous. Thankfully because I had little sleep the night before. The second day is more taxing but the overnight stay is in the wonderful market town of Namche Bazaar. Here there are dozens of trekking and mountaineering groups preparing for their hike or climb or celebrating the end of their particular quest.
The Everest Trek Proper and its Highlights
Now at a height of around 11,482 ft, unless you are a Sherpa born to this altitude, human bodies need to acclimatize so we are advised to spend two nights in Namche to let our bodies get used to the thin air. This is a great opportunity to find out more about Edmund Hillary, the first man to successfully summit Everest. He gave back in so many ways to the Sherpa community: a school, a hospital and even that airport you landed in a few days back.
One of the highlights of the trek is Tengboche Monastery. Whether you are interested in Buddhism or not you cannot fail to be impressed by the serene feel of the monastery and the majesty of the panorama views here. It is the highest monastery in the region and revered by the local Sherpas, who are, on the whole, Buddhists.
As the days go by we pass from greenery at the lower altitudes, barren looking farm lands (potatoes are a big crop here), and reach stony and rocky trails from which the mountains seem to rise.
While visiting Everest Base Camp is a thrill, not least because in the near distance you can see the tents of expeditions setting up for their climb up this great mountain, it is another location that really takes our breath away. Figuratively and literally.
Kalapattar is a high ridge over 18,000 ft high which after we scramble up – this is the literal part – we come up to the most wonderful 360o views of Mount Everest and neighbouring mountains. This has to be the real reason to do this trek. It’s hard to describe the beauty of the area. You just have to be there.
A Typical Day in Everest Base Camp Trek
The whole trip takes 12 days so naturally there are many other places to visit on the route, but basically the day shapes up kind of like this.
Breakfast is taken early in the morning at the lodge, called a tea house on the trekking routes, you slept in. It’s cold. Most likely you are tired. Once outside you get a burst of energy as you take in your surroundings. Following in the footsteps of your guide, who himself is following in the footsteps of mountaineers of old, you sometimes forget to look up as you concentrate on walking over the rough ground. But when you do – wow – this is what life is about.
The day goes on, perhaps passing over suspension bridges hanging over raging rivers or climbing up to marvellous view points. Lunch is taken on the trail itself at some little tea shop and may consist of noodles or rice. When the overnight tea house comes into sight at the end of a long day (some are 6 plus hours of walking) you are welcomed by the lovely owner, usually a rosy cheeked Sherpa lady. Dinner has more choices than lunch had and perhaps an accompanying glass of beer or cola. Bed is always welcome and most likely you won’t be changing into nightwear. It’s cold again. You’re tired again.
And tomorrow it starts all over as sunrise brings a glow to the mountains and your guide wishes you a cheery ‘good morning’. Yes, it’s a good morning!
More Information
For those thinking about their budget, you are looking at around $1,500 per person, excluding local entrance fees and taxes and drinks, but including your guide, porters, food, accommodation, flights and of course the majestic mountain scenery.
There are other routes that can be taken in the Everest Region and even a helicopter tour to Everest Base Camp is possible with USD 1000 per person.
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